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How to Add Extra Front Length Without Adding Width

If you've sewn your top or dress using the FBA option & you're happy with the fit across the bust, but the front is sitting a little higher than you'd like, this adjustment is for you.

This adjustment adds length through the front without adding any extra width. The excess at the side seam is absorbed into the dart.

1

On the front pattern piece, draw a horizontal line across the pattern, in line with the dart point (the end of the dart).

2

Cut along the line. Spread 2–3cm (3/4"–1 1/4"). Slide a strip of paper underneath & tape in place.

Diagrams showing the horizontal cut line and added front length
Paper pattern cut and spread to add extra length
3

From the original dart point (A), draw a line to (B), the end of the lower dart leg.

Line drawn from the original dart point A to point B
4

Fold the dart closed, pushing the excess downwards.

Dart folded closed with the excess paper pushed downwards
5

Redraw the side seam from underarm to hem notch. This will extend the dart legs so they meet evenly at the new side seam.

Redrawn side seam showing the extended dart legs
6

Cut along the new side seam with the dart closed.

7

Open the dart back out again.

Completed front length adjustment with the dart opened

And voila! You've added extra length to the front, while the excess at the side seam has been absorbed into the dart.

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