Back Crotch Scoop - Low Butt Adjustment
Making adjustments is a normal part of sewing for your own body. Sewing patterns are drafted to a standard set of measurements & proportions, but our bodies don’t all match those proportions. It’s not a problem with the pattern or your body. It’s simply about matching the shape of the pattern to the shape of you.
And of course, not all butts are the same. They can be higher or lower, fuller or flatter, and the shape & position of your butt can affect how pants fit through the back crotch. Our bodies can also change over time, and it’s quite common for the seat to become a little lower & flatter as we age.
If you can feel the back crotch seam tugging against your body, while excess fabric folds sit or sag down either side of your butt, it can be a sign that the shape of the back crotch curve simply isn’t matching your body.
If the rest of your pants or shorts are fitting nicely, a back crotch scoop may be just the adjustment you need.
FIRST, CHECK YOUR SIZE
Before you start scooping anything, have a look at the overall fit.
Is there simply too much ease through the pants or shorts? Or does the overall fit feel right, but you still have that vertical sagging either side of your butt with the back crotch seam pulling firmly against your body?
If the overall fit feels right, a back crotch scoop may be just what you need.
WHY DOES SCOOPING THE CROTCH WORK?
Scooping the lower back crotch into more of an L-shape gives your butt somewhere to sit within the crotch curve. It allows the back crotch seam to sit closer to the shape of your body, rather than the fabric hanging down either side.
You’re not making the pants smaller all over. You’re simply changing the shape of the crotch curve so it better matches the shape and position of your butt.
HOW TO MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT
The easiest way to work out how much you need is on the garment itself.
At the back crotch, scoop the lower part of the curve a little deeper and pin.
Scoop, pin & try on.
Still not sitting quite right? Re-pin, scooping a little more, and try them on again.
Happy with the fit? Baste the new crotch curve first, then try them on one more time. If everything is sitting nicely, sew your new back crotch seam permanently.
Start small. A surprisingly small change to the crotch curve can make quite a difference.
Once you’re happy with the fit, remember to transfer your new crotch curve back to your pattern piece so the adjustment is already there next time.
CROTCH SCOOP OR CROTCH EXTENSION?
These two adjustments solve different fit issues.
A back crotch scoop can help when the back crotch seam is pulling firmly against your body while the fabric sags vertically down either side of your butt. This is particularly common with a lower, flatter butt and changes the shape of the lower back crotch curve to better match your body.
A crotch extension adds extra room through the crotch & upper inseam and can help when your pants or shorts are cupping or pulling into the front or back crotch, or towards the inside legs.
