Pants & Shorts Fit | What Adjustment Do I Need?
Getting a great fit through the crotch and hips can sometimes take a little tweaking, but the wrinkles, folds and pull lines in your pants can give you some very useful clues.
This visual guide will help you identify what you're seeing on your body and match it to the adjustment you may need. Look at where the fabric is pulling, where there’s excess fabric, and the direction of any wrinkles or folds.
FRONT CROTCH EXTENSION
GOT THIS? Diagonal crease at the front from crotch to hip. Seems like it’s pulling. Pulling = add (extension).
DO THIS: You need a front crotch extension. Taper for pants.
FRONT CROTCH SCOOP
GOT THIS? Extra fabric fold at the crotch. Extra = remove (scoop).
DO THIS: You need a front crotch scoop. It’s important to go out, not down with a crotch scoop or you’ll be creating w whole bunch of new problems. Blend it back in to the original crotch point.
HIP DIP ADJUSTMENT
GOT THIS? Horizontal strain across the thighs/front & firm across bottom. Pulling = add (multi-size).
DO THIS: Multi-size side seams from hip to hem to allow more room for hip dip. Blend in an extra half to one size from hip notch to hem for shorts & taper for pants, on front & back. 1/2 size = 6.5mm (1/4”). 1 size = 12.5mm (1/2”).
BACK CROTCH SCOOP
GOT THIS? Extra fabric fold (vertically) at fullest part of the bottom. Extra = remove (scoop).
DO THIS: You need a back crotch scoop.
BACK CROTCH EXTENSION
GOT THIS? It looks like the crotch seam is being pulled into the crotch. Diagonal pull lines pointing to or disappearing into the back crotch. Pulling = add (extension).
DO THIS: You need a back crotch extension. Taper for pants.
SWAY BACK ADJUSTMENT
GOT THIS? Extra fabric at the back waist.
DO THIS: Sway back adjustment. Pin it out on the body first tapering it towards the side seams. Being mindful to not pin out too much. You don’t want the crotch to pull. Transfer the change to your pattern.
BACK RISE PULLING DOWN
GOT THIS? Centre back is pulling down at the waist.
DO THIS: You need to slash & open the back crotch seam to lengthen it.
