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Forward Shoulder Adjustment

Forward Shoulder Adjustment

Introduction

If you find your shirts & tops often slipping backwards or bunching behind the neck, a forward shoulder adjustment might be just what you need. It’s a small tweak that can make a big difference in comfort and fit.

I’ve found that as I’ve gotten older (& spend more time at my desk & sewing machine), I’ve needed this adjustment. Posture can change over time & we tend to round our shoulders slightly without realising. This simple alteration helps your clothes sit where they should, making them more comfortable.

In this adjustment we take a tiny bit from the front shoulder & add it to the back shoulder.

In this example...

We're using the About Town Popover Top & Dress sewing pattern for this adjustment but you can safely apply this to other patterns, both woven & knit (see notes below).

You will be alter the shoulder seam on the front & back pattern pieces. Plus, in this particular example, you'll also trim the facing at the shoulder & move the collar notch.

On the About Town pattern, you will not need to move the sleeve notch as it doesn’t match back to the shoulder seam. But if your pattern does, you should move that too. 

In other patterns...

You can safely apply this same process to other patterns. You'd just stop at Step 3.

Sleeve Pattern Piece: You'll also need to alter the notch right at the top of the sleeve head - moving it forwards the same amount you adjusted your other pattern pieces. 

Neck Band Pattern Piece: In most PE patterns you won't need to adjust this as we don't match our bands to the shoulder seam. But if your pattern does this, move the notch forward the same amount you adjusted the body & sleeve pieces. 


The Steps...

STEP 1 (below). On the front piece, mark 1cm (3/8”) in from the shoulder seam edge.  Tip: I also like to mark neck (N), armhole (A) & the shoulder seam (arrow) so I don’t get mixed up.

STEP 2 (below). Cut along the line.
Tip: We’re going to add the cut strip to the back, so in this pattern, you’ll need to flip the back upside down.

STEP 3 (below). Position the top edge (not the cut edge) along the back shoulder seam and tape or glue it in place. Tip: Blend the curves at the armhole &/or neckline a tiny bit if needed.

The front & back pieces are now complete. 
Stop here if you're using a different pattern to our example. Note that you'll need to move the sleeve head notch the same amount towards the front. 

STEP 4 (below). Adjust the front facing. To do this, trim 1cm (3/8”) from the shoulder line of the front facing piece. Skip if your pattern doesn't have a facing.

STEP 5 (below). Adjust the under collar notch. As we’ve made the back neckline longer but kept the total neckline the same, move the shoulder seam notch 1cm (3/8”) towards the front. Again, if your pattern has no collar, you don't need to do this.

Then simply sew your top as usual.

Need help with one of our patterns? All sewing, pattern, printing, size & fit support for our patterns is provided in our free community on Facebook. Pop in anytime for tips, advice, and support! https://www.facebook.com/groups/patternemporium

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