How To Fix A Gaping Neckline (hollow chest adjustment)

FIX A GAPING NECKLINE : SEWING PATTERN ADJUSTMENT

Have you sewn the the  Field Of Dreams Dress sewing pattern & found that your necklines gapes a little? 

There are a few reasons why you might have a gaping neckline, including having a hollow chest, narrow shoulders or any of the reasons listed below, but it’s a pretty easy fix. 

Below you'll see a video, that I made during the testing phase of the Field Of Dreams Dress for one of our team members, that shows you how to fix a gaping neckline. It's also sometimes called a hollow chest adjustment.

But first, Let's take a look at some of the reasons why your neckline might be gaping first. 

NOTE: I recommend sewing a fit test (muslin) first so you can work out, firstly, if you need the adjustment &, secondly, how much to remove.

1) ACCIDENTALLY STRETCHED THE NECKLINE TO FIT THE LINING (or vice versa).

Check that you haven't stretched the neckline when sewing the lining & main bodice together. When you sew woven fabrics, you can't pull the smaller edge to fit the larger edge like you do with knits. It has to be the opposite - you bring the larger one in to fit the smaller using the stay-stitching threads. So if you've done this, that's often reason your neckline will be gaping.

2) FABRICS WITH BODY

Some fabrics with more body, like linen & cotton, can gape a little at the neckline, especially if your main & lining are heavier fabrics like linen. So go light with the lining.

3) STRAPS PLACED TOO WIDE

The straps placement may also be too wide for your body. Are they falling off your shoulders? In this case, I'd shift the straps over a little.

4) INTERFACING (FUSING) IS TOO STIFF

Interfacing (fusing) is not meant to make your garment stiff. So if the one you have in your stash is too heavy (heavier than your fabric) or stiff, I'd 100% recommend purchasing a different type. Think light & soft.

5) NOT SEWN THE RIGHT SIZE

It's important to follow the sizing instructions in the tutorial. As with most of our tops, sizing is based on your upper bust measurement, not your bust measurement. If the dress is squishing your bust, I would recommend a full bust adjustment to allow more room just for your bust.

Note: a FBA won't alter the armhole or the neckline. If the neckline is gaping & none of the above seem to be a factor, this video outlines a simple method of adjusting the pattern for a gaping neckline.

If none of the above 5 points is you, then consider the gaping neckline (or hollow chest) adjustment. You can watch the video here on our YouTube Channel. In this video, I show you how to take out a small amount along the neckline without affecting fit elsewhere. I recommend doing a first test first though. 

Happy sewing (and adjusting)

Kate x

ps. KEEP ADJUSTMENTS SMALL: Small tweaks make big differences. Don't go overboard. This sewing pattern adjustment is also known as a hollow chest adjustment.