Bust Adjustments for Stretch Sewing Patterns
Choosing your pattern size from your upper bust measurement gives you the best starting point for fit through the neckline, shoulders and armholes. But sometimes that means you need a little more or a little less room through the bust.
That’s where a bust adjustment comes in.
Start with your upper bust measurement
At Pattern Emporium, we generally recommend choosing your size from your upper bust measurement, then making a bust adjustment if you need more or less room through the bust.
Do I Need a Bust Adjustment?
When you choose your size from your upper bust measurement, you’re choosing the size that best matches your upper body frame. This generally gives you a better starting point through the neckline, shoulders and armholes.
Your full bust measurement then helps determine whether the amount of room built into the pattern through the bust is right for you.
ONE SIZE DIFFERENCE
If there is only one size difference between your upper bust and full bust, most Pattern Emporium stretch patterns will not require a bust adjustment.
TWO OR MORE SIZES DIFFERENCE
For fitted or semi-fitted styles, a bust adjustment may be recommended so you can add the room you need at the bust without changing the fit through the rest of the upper body.
Always check the Size & Fit page in your pattern tutorial. The amount of ease through the bust varies depending on whether the garment is designed to be fitted, relaxed or oversized, so the guidance may differ from pattern to pattern.
Full Bust or Small Bust Adjustment?
A bust adjustment changes the amount of room through the bust while keeping the neckline, shoulders and armholes of your selected pattern size intact.
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FBA)
A Full Bust Adjustment adds room through the bust without adding unnecessary width through the neckline, shoulders and armholes.
SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (SBA)
A Small Bust Adjustment removes excess room through the bust while retaining the fit of your selected size through the neckline, shoulders and armholes.
How to Make a Bust Adjustment on a Stretch Pattern
The method in our downloadable guide and video below can be used for small bust adjustments on Pattern Emporium stretch sewing patterns.
The video demonstrates the adjustment using our Game On One Shoulder Top, but the same method can be applied to other PE stretch patterns where a bust adjustment is recommended.
Working with a woven pattern?
Woven patterns require a different approach. Head to our Pattern Adjustments library for our Full Bust Adjustment for Woven Patterns guide.
